the perfect slouchy sweatshirt | free pattern

I have a hard time with my wardrobe this time of year because I'chiliad tired of all those fall/wintertime dress I pulled out fashion back in September, but we're still months abroad from beingness able to wear all my spring/summer clothes. Plus with the continuing cold gray days, I merely really want to snuggle upwardly in something comfy anyway. I bought a lightweight slouchy sweatshirt at the GAP a while back and have been wearing it days in a row, so I decided to make a blueprint from it. New slouchy sweatshirt for me, new free pattern for you.

Ane more than comfortable top to become me through the next few months until it warms up effectually hither. (If you live someplace where information technology's warm already your probably shouldn't tell me near information technology. #jealous.)

Like all my other patterns, this one is available in size big. It's meant to exist fairly roomy which makes it easy to clothing fifty-fifty on days when you've eaten a footling also much ice cream (so that'due south every twenty-four hour period for some of us). It has a slight dropped shoulder and is finished with sleeve cuffs and a hem ring.

You'll want to use a lightweight sweater or sweatshirt textile that has stretch and pall. That means yous'll want to avoid actual sweatshirt fleece, because it's usually as well heavy and not stretchy plenty. A french terry would be PERFECT. I found this boucle knit at Jo-Ann Fabrics, and I used the wrong side of it to add contrast to the cuffs, hem, and neckbinding. You lot will need 2 yards of cloth for this pattern, and you should prewash and dry out it. ane/2 inch seam allowance is included in the blueprint.

Click hither to download the Slouchy Sweatshirt blueprint in size large. The pattern prints on half dozen sheets of 8.5×xi paper. Be sure to print it out at 100% or full size. The examination box on folio 6 should mensurate exactly 1 inch foursquare. Butt the pages upward against 1 another and tape them together (no overlapping). This is what the blueprint looks similar:

You'll need to cut two bodice pieces on the fold, ane with a front end neckline and i with a back neckline. You also need two sleeve pieces, also on the fold. Finally, you need to cut three more pieces as directed on the blueprint:

ii hem bands cut at 21 inches broad and vii inches tall
two sleeve bands cut at ix inches broad and 6 inches tall
1 cervix binding cut at 26 inches wide and 1.75 inches tall

Make sure the stretch is going forth the width of all these pieces.

Sewing the shirt together is simple. Start by placing the front on top of the back, right sides together, and sew across the shoulders as shown below.

Next, open up the shirt and lay it down flat.

Grab one of the sleeves and line the middle of the meridian curve of the sleeve up with the i of the shoulder seams. Pivot.

Pin the rest of the sleeve onto the shirt, working from the middle out every bit shown below. Continue to pin the other side of the sleeve to the shirt as well. Sew together.

Repeat with the other sleeve.

Place the front end and back of the shirt correct sides together again, and sew the side seams, starting under the arm and going all the fashion down the side. I similar to give the shirt a bit of a stretch equally I sew together the curve under the arm just to make certain the seam won't pop when the shirt is worn.

Next you'll add together the hem band. Lay the two hem band pieces RST and stitch along the curt ends as shown in the first photo below. (I actually laid my pieces incorrect sides together because I wanted the wrong side of the material to bear witness on all the bands).

Fold the hem band in one-half lengthwise and press. It will look like what you come across in the 2nd photograph beneath.

Slide the hem band over the lesser of the sweatshirt, matching upwardly the raw edges. The hem band will exist only a little bit smaller than the bottom of the sweatshirt. Match upwards the side seams and pin, so pin it the residual of the way effectually. Sew the hem ring onto the sweatshirt, stretching it merely slightly to fit. Use a zigzag, serge sew, or other stitch that stretches.

Then yous can flip the hem band down and iron flat, as you see above.

You'll add sleeve cuffs using the same method. Fold one sleeve cuff in one-half to lucifer the short ends, right sides together. Run up to create a circle of fabric. Fold it in one-half lengthwise to create a cuff. At this point, you'll desire to try the cuff on your wrist and determine if you desire it any tighter. If you do, open it dorsum up and have information technology in.

Lay the shirt down flat, correct side out (1st photo below). Slide the sleeve cuff over the sleeve portion of the shirt, matching all the raw edges. Pivot and sew (2nd photograph below). The gage will be a little smaller than the shirt sleeve, so you'll need to stretch it as yous sew to make it fit.

In one case it's sewn on, flip the gage out and printing. Echo with the other sleeve.

Side by side, you'll finish the neckline. Your neckband piece is cut to 26 inches, just it may demand to be trimmed even shorter. The correct width here really depends on how stretchy your fabric is. 23 inches is probably good for material with a medium stretch. Go a piddling shorter if your material is quite stretchy without a lot of recovery, or a flake longer if information technology's not as stretchy. Y'all'll sew the short ends of your neckband together to brand a circle. Then fold the band in one-half all forth the circle and press.

Pin the collar to the neckline of the shirt, matching the raw edges (and so the folded edge of the neckband is downwards and the raw edge is up). The band will be shorter than the neckline, then it will need to exist stretched slightly to fit. Pin the band to the neckline.

Stitch the neckband onto the shirt, using a stitch that will stretch. The neckline of the shirt volition bunch up a little under the neckbinding – brand sure to stretch the binding a flake every bit you sew and so that everything lays flat.